THE chef at the Blue Check Restaurant in Bushey High Street must have been in high spirits when I dined there: the mango cheesecake was as rich as it sounds. Those who have eaten there will know what I mean, but for those of you who haven't, on the dessert menu it clearly states mango cheesecake is available "only when the chef is in a good mood".

I have reviewed many restaurants and I have to say that Blue Check tops the lot.

As soon as you walk through the heavy wooden double doors you step into a very chic ambience and the first-class customer care begins. Instead of ushering you to a table, the attentive waiters give you an option of where to sit. Every customer, I noticed, had the same treatment. The feeling of choosing where to sit, as opposed to being told, is one that is very appealing.

What was also refreshing was that when we reached the perfectly made-up table there were fresh rolls waiting for us. This is rarely seen in many restaurants today, and made a mouth-watering start to a meal that got better and better.

As soon as I laid eyes on the menu, I immediately wanted to have a bit of everything. Being realistic, however, I decided to opt for one starter and one main course.

To begin, I chose grilled Mediterranean prawns with garlic relish. The tender prawns were the most succulent I have ever tasted. My dining partner had yakitori negima, Japanese chicken kebab with spring onions in a yakitori sauce. The chicken was also tender and when the meat melted in your mouth it unleashed the spicy flavour of the sauce.

For the next course I had medallions of beef "Ugly Duckling". Believe me, there was nothing unattractive about this dish, which came with oyster mushrooms and whole-grain mustard in a cream sauce. Again, 12 out of ten for the tenderness of the meat and the complementing smooth, yet peppery flavour of the sauce.

My companion opted for fresh sea bass after toying with the idea of monkfish, and he was not disappointed. It was cooked with a little olive oil and lemon juice and grilled. Both meals were accompanied with vegetables of the day and sauteed potatoes, all cooked to perfection.

Managers David Johal and Kostas Nikomanis run a fine example of a first-class restaurant. The Blue Check hasn't been open too long, but I have no doubt that very soon there may even be a waiting list for a table, and it wouldn't surprise me it truly is a wonderful eating experience. - VL

The Blue Check, High Street, Bushey

Telephone: 020 8421 8811

Reproduced from Limited Edition magazine, exclusive guides to living in Hertfordshire, Middlesex and the London Borough of Barnet (01923 216295)